We’re in Rome! After stomping through the ruins of the ancient Empire, we are finally at its heart.
This four-month trip was designed to be a “Round the World as Far as Covid-Restrictions Will Allow” adventure, but other than Kenya, it turned out to be a Grand Tour of the ancient Roman Empire. Not a complaint, just a stubbed toe for all the Roman ruins we have stumbled over for two months.
Observation #1: Rome is crowded.
Corollary: Rain cleans up the streets quite well. Here are the Spanish Steps (leading up to the French church), first on a sunny afternoon, and the next day during a shower.
Observation #2: Ancient Rome was obsessed with Ancienter Egypt. Two thousand years before Great Britain was, ahem, “saving” Egyptian antiquities, Rome was pilfering their favorite souvenirs. Rome, just as a city, has more Egyptian obelisks than Egypt does. The obelisks doubled as race markers for chariots to round as they rode hell-bent around cobbled streets to cheering crowds. The richest families built palaces on the race route for the best vantage points.
Observation #3: Rome rocks water. Of course, the many public fountains are filled with water from aqueducts, with Trevi being the most famous*. But there are good drinking fountains as well. One of our guides showed us that some of the fountains have a small hole facing upward. If you use a finger to cover up the spout, water comes out the top hole like a drinking fountain. Neat engineering!
Observation #4: Just because it’s a marble (or similar) statue doesn’t make it beautiful. Honestly, we’ve learned this many times. The Naples museum ruined us because each sculpture was a thing of beauty.
Observation #5: The Pantheon [all + gods] is worth seeing and it’s free. This building is the most intact structure of ancient Rome since its rebuild in 1AD because of its continual use, first as a Roman temple and then, in the 7th century, a Catholic church. The columns in front belie the circular structure of the inside. The dome is open (final picture) to allow light long before electricity was an option. And yes, it absolutely rains through the open ceiling, making useful the many floor drains. I believe the first two Italian kings are interred here, but I found it interesting that this is also the final resting place of the Raphael (under Mary & Child in first picture).
Our hotel was within walking distance of many of The Sights, and I enjoyed walking around our five days here, holding on to my pockets whenever we walked by Trevi Fountain and glimpsing the Colosseum while looking for a restaurant. I won’t go out of my way to return, but I bet Rome and I will meet again.
*The legend is that if you take a coin and toss it over your opposite shoulder, you will return to Rome. None of us bothered. However, they collect thousands of Euros a day for charity from Trevi alone, so I approve.
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