There are many, many, many ways of getting out of your comfort zone while traveling, but I went looking for more anyway while we had a few days in Nairobi. We use Project Expedition to find small-business local tour experiences, which is how I came across the Nai Nami Story Telling Experience. Here’s the blurb:
– 3 hours of storytelling experience in Nairobi Downtown (not slum!), guided by former street children – Every pair of attendees gets his own guide to facilitate an inspiring exchange – See Downtown, the side of the city center where the real local life is taking place and you wouldn’t go yourself – Opportunity to visit a hidden market where the locals hustle – Have lunch at a Kibanda to exchange and ask all your questions about street life
Our tours are not designed to be sightseeing tours. It’s a storytelling experience where our guides will show you the places you will never venture alone. We will take you through the bustling streets of Downtown in the city centre, which used to be the home of your guides. It is a vibrant place where local people do business, shop at hidden markets, eat at Kibandas and enjoy the authentic Nairobi life. Each street has its own stories and secrets, which we will share with you.
I am not done processing this, but I will say that when it was just the five of us again, one of the kids said with wide-eyed seriousness, “This isn’t [our home town],” and we all nodded slowly for a long time.
What we were able to rescue for recycling near our home.
One lens we can look through is litter. A few Sundays before we left, Dwayne, Wes and I went to the bottom of our hill and walked up to the ‘funny-4-way-stop’, with 3 trash bags. We filled them up, found a few more bags among the garbage and filled those up as well, before we ran out of time and garbage bags. It was annoying, especially after Dwayne and I handwashed all this so it could be recycled, but it made a huge difference on the hill.
I couldn’t find a bottle cap on the streets in Dubai.
In the part of Nairobi we are staying, there is enough trash in a few blocks to fill several trashbags but with enough determination and time, it could get reasonably clean.
Downtown (as in the opposite of uptown) Nairobi: I wouldn’t know where to start. It wasn’t that there was just litter on the street; it was the street. And it was a tangible metaphor of the hopeless and desolate poverty downtown. Our story-telling guides, who have “made it” out of the streets, were very pessimistic about life every getting better–even as they were actively working towards helping others.
Out of respect, we didn’t take pictures while we were downtown. Again, Bing comes to my rescue for published photos of what we witnessed.
Definitely NOT my picture. Thanks, Bing, for non-blurry stock photos.
Yes, this palm tree trunk is “made” of gold bullions. Subtle, it is not.
I thought I knew my type: classically beautifully, rugged, and ancient, like Quito, Split, Dubrovnik, Venice, Budapest, and Vienna. (Sorry, London, you are wonderful, and not bad looking, but you’re a little…obsessed…with royalty. Let’s just be friends.) But shiny, too-young, playboy Dubai? Swoon! I did not see that coming. Clean cut, English-speaking, meticulously clean and polite, Dubai has all the coolest toys. Enjoy UK’s Big Ben and London Eye? They’re bigger (and, ahem, England, not under long-term construction) here. Want to go skiing and enjoy the world’s biggest water park, in the desert no less, Dubai’s your guy. The weirdest, coolest, tallest, most amazing, record-breaking buildings and architecture? You won’t have enough time. Is it enough to have the tallest building in the world? Nope, better make it into the tallest light show in the world as well, and don’t forget to add an amazing dancing fountain as well, so people shopping at the largest (and likely, most opulent) mall in the world won’t suffer from ennui. It truly seems to be a multicultural, multi-faith, tolerant society. [Admittedly, I have no stats or anecdotes about the LGBTQ+ community.) But I can admire a society where getting stuff done is far more important than division. Seriously, Dubai is dreamy.
It was actually only in the light of the second day that rose-colored glasses grew a little clearer. In many ways, it is a utopia. With so much oil, this city is literally lit—the biggest Christmas light displays would be embarrassed by an average February Tuesday here. Taxes increased about ten years ago…from zero to 5%. With no homeless population and 100% employment, almost no crime and police presence, it seems too good to be true. It’s worth noting that full employment comes from the policy that if you don’t work, you don’t stay. Only about 15% of the population are actual citizens. Everyone else is temporary (even if for nearly a lifetime), and if you lose your job, you have two months to find a new one, or out you go. Seriously. Our tour guide’s wife lost her job and now she is living in the UK with family, while her husband and young son are in Dubai. Employers take care of health care, but they also, often, hold on to passports, as they will be fined if any employee absconds. There is a fine line, then, between solid employment and possible slavery. (Do you remember the scandal years ago about Indian workers brought to Dubai to build and didn’t get to leave?) Also, don’t have a child with special needs as there isn’t any social safety net to speak of.
Perhaps I can say it this way—it’s all the good stuff without any of the grace. So it might not be worth having. However, I venture out of my depth into philosophy, so I will wade back in with another picture that I can assure you I did not take.
So much is different since 2020, and of course, our itinerary didn’t escape unscathed either.
This was going to be how we circumnavigated the globe two years ago:
Taking off from Seattle and following the line upward, this is our current itinerary. No lie though, it is only accurate through Egypt/Jordan, reasonably predictive of some of the Mediterranean, and rather fictional (we are saying “squishy”) towards the end.
It was just while we were preparing for Ecuador in December that it started seeming possible, even likely, that our Big Trip would happen. Even in the excitement of Quito, Dwayne and I would sometimes look at each other and mouth “six weeks”—the subtext being “we’ll need to panic soon”.
I took that to heart and spent all of 2022 thus far in a tizzy, making to-do lists of all the to-do lists I needed to make. Finally, it accumulated in this last weekend as we began packing,
And this morning, this,
Four months packed in five carry-ons, wrapped up in a decade of dreams and schemes. Let’s see where it leads, shall we?
We delayed our departure by a few days so Piper could spend her 14th birthday at home. We still like to tell the story of her almost being named “Cheese” over her requested dinner of steak and Caesar salad. I had a dream while I was pregnant that Dwayne missed this birth, too (No, I will not stop bringing that up, Dwayne) and in retaliation, I named her Cheese. After a third trimester of “the baby is coming” drills, Dwayne was in bed with me when the contractions started, and now she is called one-who-pipes instead of one-who-is-stinky-and-delicious. Piper exemplifies everything I want in an adult and a few of the things I want in a teen I’m supposed to be raising. She went from a kid who likes arts and crafts to a genuine artist and crafter. The pink platypus is what she crocheted right before we left so she’d have a friend on the trip, and the top is something she experimented with one weekend. She is perfectly horrid to Wes until he is struggling and then she is the first to patiently take care of him. I think what I enjoy most about Piper is her clever banter and dry sense of humor—and our mutual appreciation of musicals. I brought this girl to life and love her to death. I present to you, 14 year old Piper.
All I knew of Quito before landing there was that it was about 9,300 feet above sea level (though so topographically mountainous that I don’t know what point is flat enough to measure!). Many people experience altitude sickness their first few days; we were fortunate in that we got away with wheezing up any incline, which we totally attribute to the nearly-two-miles-above-sea-level.
I quickly and whole-heartedly fell in love with the capital of Ecuador. We stayed in Old Town at the beginning and end of our time in this country, and its strong European-Latin American fusion awoke my adventurous self while Dwayne and I urban-hiked (huffed?) our way around this area that was conquistador-ed and colonized in the early 1500s before it won its independence in 1820. Quito has cathedrals like Seattle has Starbucks…if coffee stands were around 300-500 years ago.
We eventually lured our children out of the hotel with promises of dessert. Quito gave me another reason to crush on it– my fruit cup came with Ecuadorian cream (thicker, lightly flavored with berries) and grated mozzarella, which should immediately be adopted by the Global Committee of Fine Desserts.
It’s so fun to explore at Christmas time, with extra lights and energetic crowds. We climbed to the top of the basilica, a newbie at only 100 years old–and it had the first heart-shaped window I have seen, as well as gargoyles that represent the most famous Galapagos animals. (They would have tried Amazon animals but no one could find them…she snarked bitterly.) A city of 3 million people, we explored only the smallest fraction, but we ventured out far enough for some pickpocket attempts. But I was never scared or disappointed, just exhilarated by this historical and beautiful city in the mountains.
On our very last night, Kyla wanted street food for dessert. She and I went out with just a few coins in our pockets to the “largest outdoor dollar store”–everything, from baby chicks, mangos, wrapping paper, and candy, is packaged is dollar-sized packages. Kyla got her cake and strawberries to sweeten the end of our adventure.
Just a last note about Patio Andaluz: our hotel for our first and last nights– oh my goodness! A half-block from the heartbeat of Old Town, the location was perfect, but the hotel was more than location. I love the Spanish-influenced interior courtyards and gardens. I found so many great nooks to curl up and read, and they had two different kettles that always were ready to make me a cup of tea. There were daily arrangements of flirtatious flowers and a place for a game of chess or cribbage, and of course, soft pillows to rest our jet-lagged heads!
Passion Fruit–so delicious!Up to the garden terraces
This is a place worth returning to…when I’m done exploring the rest of the world!
It’s no surprise that the equator goes through Ecuador. We even passed over it twice in the Galapagos. But we wanted to investigate further, so we visited Middle of the World, less than an hour outside of Quito.
There are two places to go: 1) the true, military-grade GPS-located equator with a fun museum and “scientific” interactions, and 2) the giant monument erected to commemorate the equatorial line calculated in 1736, which is really only off about 800 feet, so mad props to 18th-century technology!
We started at the Museo de Sitio, where we divided our family by hemisphere and learned about indigenous culture. Piper took notes on how to make a shrunken head. Wes showed a remarkable skill for getting an egg to balance on a nail head–steadiest hands around. Kyla succeeded once, and the rest of us were egg dunces.
We also did fun experiments, like drain water from tub right on the line, to the north and to the south–scientifically proving that the water drains straight down at exactly 0 degrees, flushes clockwise in the north, and counterclockwise in the south. It also proves that Dwayne spoils the magic when he researches further to find that tubs drain straight when the water has sat for a while, and you can control the direction of flushing by how you dump the water in the tub right before pulling the plug. Ah, science, you slippery thing! But it didn’t make our morning there any less delightful.
Next, we made it to the historical equator, and I climbed to the top of the monument while the others got ice cream.
On the interior, the monument spiraled down to showcase Ecuador’s history over the centuries, as well as its different regions.
The Nativity is more widespread in Ecuador than at home, and lovely in all its regional permutations!
The inverted heart was our Galapagos route. I wish we had time to explore more westward, but it was a good appetizer!
The Galapagos is a study of contrasts to the Amazon. Where dipping a toe in the Napo meant that not only could you no longer see your toe, it may not even be attached anymore, the Galapagos waters were clear enough to see rays, turtles and sharks from the pangas (motorized rafts). In the Amazon, most of the animals we saw were slightly moving blurs that our guides swore was a monkey or bird. Just getting off the bus on the Galapagos, this guy greeted us.
On our way!
We were 5 of the 14 guests, half which were kids, so it was a well-balanced group, with parents kicking kids to their own table so we could have long dinners with adult conversation.
The yacht is exactly what Dwayne will get for himself and his ten best friends. I hope I am invited!
The tour started with a bus ride to lunch and a tortoise preserve, where we immediately saw more tortoises than we saw animals total in the Amazon. One guy smiled at us!
It is a good adventure when you are slowed down by a tortiose crossing.
We went from land reptiles to sea birds. We got to see the famous blue-footed boobies, then heaps of red-footed boobies, nasca boobies, frigates, and then more and more and more birds, possibly to bird ad naseum. But Piper loved the fluffy chicks that were as big as their parents. One of the more educational parts was seeing a feeding/mauling of a parent who made it back with a gut full of fish.
I was pleased when we moved from feathers to fur and fins. The sea life was vast and colorful, with sea lions on shore and off. As always, Water Wes was always the first one in. Piper, who very reluctantly let Mama talk her into trying it just one time, chided me several times for not being fast enough to keep up with her underwater exploring. Kyla and Wes are both very brave and often swam several feet under to get a closer look. The water was chilly, even with our short wetsuits, and Dwayne had to make zero-fat Wes get back into the boat to warm up the first time out. Unlike above water exploration, where we would get to see lots of one or two species, the tropical fish were varied, numerous, beautiful and fascinating. We all loved it each of the three times we went out.
One of our beach excursions was the daycare where mamas left their babies while they went off hunting. I will not make anyone watch the reels and reels of baby footage Piper and I took, but the stills are pretty fun, too!
The beaches were the best–organic white and volcanic black both delighted us. The seal lions accompanied us everywhere, and we enjoyed the trails the marine iguanas made in the sand and the colorful crabs. Can you spot all three species … not including the homo sapiens?
Wes chose sleep over going on our last excursion on the morning of the final day. Luckily, the girls had more sense!
Our Galapagos tour was short, not even three full days from airport pick-up to drop-off, but we saw lots of animals (well, many of a few species) and possibly spent too much time looking at the same only-on-Galapagos! birds. We had warm sand and blue, blue water, and sunburns by lunch–it was the paradise everyone said it would be!
My best picture: The view from the top of a lookout, in the canopy.
Our first adventure in Ecuador (not counting the worst traveling experience we’ve ever had just getting to South America) was exploring the Ecuadorian Amazon Basin along the Napo River, a tributary of the Amazon River. We launched from Coca, and between ship and motorized boat, made it to the Yasuni River and back again. Fun fact: Only 2% of the Amazon Basin is within Ecuador, but it still takes up a chunk of this country.
Do you know the point of the rainforest jungle? It conceals predictors and prey alike. So, yes, we were surrounded by some of the most amazing species in the world. We even saw a few of them. Want a good approximation? Watch the Disney’s The Jungle Cruise and take out every single speck of CGI (Computer Animated Images).
The foliage is dense, the water is opaque, and the sky is blue.
Thanks to our guides we spotted some animals, or at least dark smudges that we were assured were fauna. My favorites are when the guide used a scope to spot something, then used my camera’s zoom to take a photo of a bird I “saw”. I dare you to find the toucan in the final picture of this collage:
Of course, there was plenty of wildlife if you know where to look!
Dwayne, who until age 11, lived in a few cleared-out acres in the jungle outside of Porto Velho, Brazil, felt a homecoming with the sounds, smells, and even the weight of the humidity. It was also the first cruise (even if we made up almost half of the twelve guests) for the kids, and it was exciting! Right away, Wes found the jacuzzi on the sundeck and the kids happily unpacked their own special fugue into their cabins. I love the very taste of adventure—and of cruising cuisine.
The Manatee
The Amazon and its tributaries are wild—lows, highs, at any time dangerous with swift currents, slow currents, debris, and deadly animals. At this time of year, our ship was limited by shallow waters outside of Coca and the similarly shallow spots near the Peru border. It meant that we took powered canoes for hours for our daily excursions. This was fine for the first two 3-hour rides, but on the third one, I gave up being fascinated by the dense flora and never left the Manatee without slipping the kindle in my daypack. Here is a glimpse of what going down the river was like; the longer version is more realistic.
A lifetime family highlight was swimming in the Amazon together. Piper, who had firmly insisted she would never swim in a river where piranhas swim, was second only to Wes in jumping in. We were in a shallow area with a strong current—and allegedly far, far away from the anaconda resting marshes we had explored the day before.
Our adventures took us on a night hike where the insects feasted upon us, and Kyla and Dwayne held a cute little snake while the guide put a scorpion spider on his face. On Yasuni River, we saw deep swaths tunneled through by (invisible to us) anacondas and the rumps and tails of curious pink dolphins and giant river otters. We fished for piranha, which is also known just as feeding time for the piranah. We hiked to and around a giant kapok tree, which would not have been ashamed in a redwood forest. The guides have relationships with indigenous families who take turns hosting tours, so we were able to meet a family, see their home and farm, and explore more jungle. Dwayne, Kyla, and I transformed into a rare featherless, flightless parrot. Kyla ate ants, which was really cool (the grub stump was out–we checked). We also saw where the parrots licked clay…last month. We were able to hear them fly to their new favorite clay spot not accessible to us. The macaws didn’t show up for their designated tea time at the mineral pool either, even when we waited for two hours. By then, I took my kindle everywhere so I was not too annoyed. Luckily, Wes chose sleep over that expedition.
One of my highlights was our last afternoon, despite of a boa constrictor’s appearance. The kids all elected to stay behind, and the adults hiked through the forest and up a hill a bit to get to a climbing tower that rivaled the height of the tree it was built next to. Two hundred twelve steps up, and the guides uncorked the champagne as we got to survey the expansive jungle below. Almost no birds or animals celebrated with us; however, we did get to enjoy this sunset and excellent company.
Goodbye, Amazon! We’ll remember you fondly next time Piper gets so bitten by mosquitos that we end up in a hospital many, many hours from closest electic grid.
Do we have any meaningful scale to evaluate a year anymore? “Not 2020” sets a low bar, but we want to remember 2021 as more than just the one last year bled into. I think I’ll remember the heel-clicks I did yesterday in Walmart’s pharmacy, when I got Wes’s vaccination card back after his second shot. World, here we come! … she wrote exactly two days before the omicron variant was first reported. Sigh.
2020 is still haunting us. We have no quarrels with the new normal of masks and vaccines, but our travel plans are taunting spirits. Our trip to the Amazon and Galapagos in Ecuador is because we had to use our travel credits in South America or lose them at the end of this year. And unless policies change drastically, we have only one year to use our African safari and travel credits. What’s more, if we don’t use Dwayne’s sabbatical this spring, we won’t be able to take that much time away again until the kids are grown. As always, I look forward to reading 2022’s Christmas letter so I know how all our travel plans resolved themselves!
Dwayne is just weeks away from 25 years at Microsoft, with the last two of them working from home. He solves real problems involving virtual computers and clouds, but I think he spends most of his time helping my dad with his technical issues. Dwayne is a Master Planner and surprised me with a 5-day birthday trip, taking a scenic train from Moab, UT to Denver sheerly for the pleasure of it. For our 19th anniversary, we went glamping and did our very last real mountain biking. Was it ever fun to bike uphill over tree roots, or did it just hurt less in our twenties? Falling for a social media stunt, Dwayne took the challenge to do one hundred push-ups a day. He’s up to 250 and got somewhat bored, so he’s trying to figure out what ridiculous feat to master next. In the “they may not listen but they are watching” category, Wes is working on his handstand pushup. I find chocolate is the right snack to eat while watching them both.
Wes wrapped up “our” elementary career when he graduated to middle school this year. Mostly this means a very early start to our days, but Wes has impressed me, getting himself and Piper up each morning, and then making sure I’m up to get them to the bus on time. He loves going out in the motorhome and anything all-wheels-no-hands. However, what I will probably remember most about his childhood is him playing Minecraft, or screaming while playing Minecraft, so that’s…rewarding. I think he has tried no new foods this year, so if he doesn’t get lost while we’re overseas, he will starve to death. He wants you to know that he wears the same clothes. Every. Day. (Minecraft sweatshirt, red shirt, and gray sweats, if you were wondering.) He and I have different views on how impressive that is.
Piper has truly enjoyed less people and more yarn in her life. I’m currently writing this while Piper is making a slipper model out of my foot using plastic wrap and duct tape. Crafting in the age of YouTube and TikTok is certainly its own entertainment. Thirteen-year-old Piper is a full-blown crochet-master and creates many of her own patterns. Siblings, friends, and cousins have all been recipients of her creations. She’s also proven to be a henna artist—summer meant intricate patterns over her hands and feet. Advanced art is her favorite class in 8th grade, and she frequently reminds the family how much more she likes her cat than any of us. But at least she bakes us many, many yummy treats, particularly when Dwayne and I are trying to cut back on sweets.
Kyla is well in her first year of high school, and we have the Homecoming photos to prove it. In addition to Spanish and her first AP class, Kyla is finishing up driver’s ed. I am responsible for 99% of the bumps, scrapes, and scratches on my car, but I really love having the “Caution: Student Driver” sticker on the minivan so that others don’t assume I’ve inflicted the damage myself. Kyla is still fifteen-going-on-college. I wonder how much further Dwayne and I would have gotten in life if we had been more like her at that age. (This letter might be signed Doctor Denise or Madame President.) She also has a real job after school, assisting a neighbor’s successful thread-dying business. To balance her uber-responsible side, she embraces adventures. She and Dwayne flew down to California last August to join her uncle and cousin on a two-night backpacking trip. Afterward, she did a five-day survival camp that she wants to continue doing each year. Kyla is still the only human I know who can make reading and watching movies into an aerobic exercise, and if Seattle ever has an earthquake, Dwayne and I will just assume Kyla’s found a new favorite book—or Rothfuss finally completed his trilogy.
I used to measure each day by how many things I did, but Covid and older kids changed that. I take a few substitute jobs, tutor some, manage the Airbnb, and try to represent Special Education families on our local PTSA, but none of that adds up to a week’s worth of labor. I LOVE it. My brain is pretty happy, and I’m on track for reading about 180 books this year, fifty more than last year. (Here’s a link to my reading highlights this year.) However, I am parenting three very, very dissimilar persons–different from each other and myself–and this mother-board frequently glitches and relies on therapy. Unrelated, after jumping into the frigid January waters in a bikini, I found that dressing up as a witch and paddleboarding on Halloween is far more pleasant. Yep, all that there book-learnin’ gonna make me intelligenter.
Dwayne and I will fondly remember this as the year our Covid Project was finally completed. Thirteen months was approximately four times longer than we anticipated, but I’ve had heaps of fun planting the rain garden and creating a burbling fountain extravaganza. I discovered that spending money on plants is too slow a strategy to go broke; instead, one really needs to start collecting garden art to make real headway toward bankruptcy. (Garden statues Cricket and Ernie wish you Merry Christmas, by the way.)
A friend recently gifted me with a “One cat short of crazy” mug—but she’s wrong. I am 2.9 cats over the advised pee and vomit limit. Timmy and Rosie have owned Piper and Kyla for eight years, but Covid made Wes yearn for his own pet, too. S’more the Hamster made it about a week before she was found, beheaded and smeared across Piper’s carpet. We ended up adopting Calico Catniss, feeling better about her head staying attached but somehow we are now a household of three kids and an equal number of cats. Wes is the class of 2028, so the cats have seven years to use their nine lives. My motto will be “Footloose and Furry-free, Hey-ho the Drinks are on Me!“
I’ve reread this nonsense and can solidly say it’s better than at least 10 books I read this year. And if you are keeping track of your book reading, I think the length of this allows you to add another notch to your wall.
To all of those reading this, you add depth to our world by allowing us to be, even a little bit, part of yours.
Needopedia 